Whether you are painting a nursery, refinishing a piece of furniture, or in need of finger-paints for young children, it’s important to consider the safety of the paints you buy. Though babies’ weakened immune systems make finding baby-safe paint especially important, buying safe, eco-friendly paint is important for your health and for the environment.

VOC-free wall paints fall into essentially three categories: small, medium, and large brands. I’d recommend starting with the medium brands. These brands have a pleasant online shopping experience as well as plenty of reviews.

I highly recommend ECOS and Clare. These are medium-sized brands selling high-quality, eco-friendly paints that are, of course, VOC free.

With a broad color selection and reasonable pricing, you’ll be able to use these paints all throughout your home.

You can also purchase zero VOC paints from smaller bands like Green Planet Paints and Green Building Supply. While smaller brands may have limited colors or provide a less up-to-date online shopping experience, they often have quality products and a helpful customer service team.

While big-name brands like Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Valspar are a logical first choice when paint shopping, they are my last resort. Newer brands that originated specifically to offer eco-friendly paints typically develop formulas from the ground up using high-quality pigments, environmentally conscious processing methods, and clean ingredients.

In contrast, brands that were previously selling VOC laden paints will generally just make a couple of adjustments to their original formulation. This results in an inferior product often containing compounds that, while not labeled VOCs, are similar in the way they off-gas into your home.

While we’re discussing interior paints, I want to mention ProSolutions Fiberlock ChildGaurd lead-blocking primer. If you’ve purchased an older home where lead paint was used, it is essential to remove the lead paint or seal it in. While the Fiberlock paint isn’t VOC free, it is safer, easier, and cheaper than trying to remove lead paint, and lead is far more dangerous than VOCs.

While there are lots of new VOC-free wall paints in the market, my absolute favorite has been around for centuries. Lime paint is naturally VOC-free and non-toxic.

Beyond being extraordinarily good for the environment, lime paints are colored with pigments from the earth, leading to colors with lots of character. Please check out some of our other articles for more information on lime paint and brand recommendations.

The natural patina that develops on old metal has become a popular finish for everything from wooden dressers to metal candlesticks. A lot of the home decor items we purchase today will not patina naturally, and, even if they did, would take a long time to do so. That’s where faux patina finishes come in.

You can create a beautiful authentic-looking patina using lots of techniques. From specialty products to DIY solutions, this article covers the best options for a furniture makeover with patina.

Note on the Formulation of Chalk Paint

While mineral paint manufacturers are open about what is in their product, chalk paint manufacturers are generally not as open. I looked at all the most popular chalk paint brands and was unable to find basic formulation information like which resins, pigments, solvents, and chalk were used.

A basic chalk paint recipe is a latex paint (usually made from a variety of acrylic resins, artificial pigments, and a water-based solvent) and a chalk product (usually plaster of paris or pure calcium carbonate). While most manufacturers claim to have improved on this DIY recipe in some way, they do not specify how.

Q: Is Fusion Mineral Paint the best mineral paint brand?

A: Fusion Paint, originally a milk paint brand, seems to be the “Annie Sloan” of mineral paint, being the first brand to launch a comprehensive collection with colors, brushes, finishes, and lots of videos and tips for how to use their products. This brand is also more open than any other about what goes into the paint and how it’s made.

While there are other brands selling quality mineral paint, Fusion has set themselves apart with a strong selection of colors, a large selection of complementary products and instructional videos, and transparency through the manufacturing process. This is definitely the brand I would recommend.

Q: Are chalk mineral paint and mineral paint different?

A: Chalk paint and mineral paint are different products. However, some brands call their chalk paint “chalk mineral paint”. This product is still just chalk paint; however, it is likely to be pigmented with mineral pigments instead of synthetic pigments.

For example, Dixie Belle Chalk Mineral Paint is the original Dixie Belle paint line. They’ve included the word mineral in the name, but it isn’t mineral paint; it’s chalk paint.

Q: Does Dixie Belle sell mineral paint?

A: Yes! This Dixie Belle mineral paint line is called Silk All-In-One Mineral Paint. It has a limited range of colours, all inspired by the sea. Dixie Belle’s chalk paint is still far more popular than their Silk line.

Q: What makes mineral paint colors different from other paint colors?

A: It’s all in the name! Mineral paint is colored with natural mineral pigments while most paints today are made with synthetic pigments. There is nothing inherently wrong with synthetic pigments, but mineral pigments have properties that the synthetic ones don’t.

Mineral pigments are naturally UV resistant and will not fade over time. This makes them perfect for outdoor application like a picket fence or piece of furniture for a patio.

These pigments are also full of character and bound to make a statement. Colors like midnight blue contain the richness and depth of deep space; cathedral taupe anchors a space with earthy tones; raw silk is creamy and luxurious. While some paint made with synthetic pigments are shallow and bland, this will never be true of paint made with mineral pigments.

Q: Can I use mineral paint for furniture?

A: Absolutely! It is perfect for furniture, especially statement pieces. It’s especially nice to use on large pieces of furniture since it has a built-in topcoat! This will save you lots of time on bigger pieces.

However, since the paint is affordable and high quality you can use it to enrich any piece with a pop of colour. Maybe you need some homestead blue on the edge of a picture frame; maybe you want an edge of black on your colorful tabletop. From cabinets to dressers to fabric, this paint is perfect for any application.

While mineral paint and chalk paint are used for similar applications, they are very different in formulation and features. These days, I only reach for chalk paint if I specifically want a chalky finish. Otherwise, the quality and ease of use that mineral paint provides is exactly what I need!

Chalk paint has quickly spread from a DIY project that had to be mixed and pigmented at home to a national phenomenon with dozens of brands and thousands of colors to choose from. While you can find a pale pink and a turquoise-y blue in almost every brand’s color collection, each brand has a few unique colors to offer.

This guide pulls some of the best colors from each brand so that you can find the best color (and brand) for your project!

While Home Depot sells quite a number of chalk paint products, its two best selling brands are Annie Sloan and Behr. These two brands are at their best on different sides of the color spectrum so choosing between them is as simple as choosing the color you’re looking for.

The Annie Sloan collection has some pretty standard colors but, these greyed-out purples and blues are unique to her collection. These shades are a great way to incorporate lots of color without getting too bright or overbearing.

Paloma would be stunning on picture frames hung on a dark wall. I can see Napoleonic Blue on chair cushions or pillows. Consider using Louis Blue in your bathroom for an airy feel or Rodmell on your lamp shades to give your room a purple glow.

Equally appropriate on walls, fabric, and furniture, these colors will add a lux look to a space without overwhelming you with color.

Behr’s gorgeous green and yellow pallets have so much character. These colors contain a lot of life.

Bring in the sunshine with Farmhouse White and Summer Porch or embrace an old world villa feel with Fresh Earth and Vintage Mustard. Go seaside with Ice Water and Surf; have a garden party with Vineyard Passage and Green Silk.

If you’re looking for a yellow or green chalk paint, this is the collection I’d turn to first.

The two main chalk paint brands sold at Lowe’s are Valspar and Krylon. Let’s look at the best colors from each!

Valspar’s color collection was somewhat disappointing. However, their pallet did contain these pretty pastels, which could be lovely on crafts or on a garden gate.

Valspar does offer custom color tinting so this a good brand to choose if you need a color match or a very specific shade.

I was amazed by the wide range of shades Krylon offered, especially when it comes to light neutrals and off-whites. I have never seen a brand offer so many color choices.

Hover over each color to see the name, or click on the color to be taken to the color page on the Lowe’s website.

When it comes to neutrals and off-whites, a small difference in shade or undertone can make a big difference. Having a large selection available is incredibly helpful!

My favorite colors in this collection are Bay Waves (fourth row, first column), Ibis White (second row, third column), and Pale Bloom (bottom row, last column). However, the beauty of this collection is not in one particular color but in having a variety of tones to choose from for your project.

Like the Valspar collection, the Waverly chalk paint line doesn’t have a lot going for it. There aren’t many colors to choose from, and of the options you do have, there aren’t many good choices.

The four colors to the left stood out to me as good choices for a simple orange, blue, red-orange, and red. They have an iconic feel that I like. Overall, however, I would not recommend this collection.

I love the Dixie Belle color collection. It is full of beautiful colors, but these six are my favorites.

These colors are bright and bold, but not at all overwhelming. They are highly pigmented without the overstated look that neon colors have.

I highly recommend these colors and any of the colors from the Dixie Belle line

The olive tones in the FolkArt collection are simply lovely. These would be beautiful chalk paint colors for furniture. They have an old world feel that look beautiful when distressed.

Consider using the sage shadow on a bedside table or the Savannah on a patio set. These colors will add a little bit of luxury to whatever space you use them in.

The Rustoleum chalk paint line is very limited. These colors to the right are all that they offer. Even though the selection is limited, it is very popular.

I personally don’t love any of these colors, but if you like one, this is a good brand to purchase from. Rust-Oleum makes a high-quality product.

Unfortunately, spray-on chalk paints are still somewhat new, and there are not a ton of colors available yet. However brands like Krylon and Rust-Oleum have some aerosol chalk paints in popular colors.

If you found this selection helpful, consider subscribing to our newsletter for more content like this. If you have questions or want to share some of your favorite chalk paint colors, leave us a comment!

If you’ve done any furniture refinishing, you’ve probably wondered can you paint over stain? The simple answer is yes, but you need to prepare your stained piece appropriately. Correct preparation ensures the paint will adhere properly and that the stain will not bleed into the paint.

Preparation is going to vary significantly based on what type of paint you’re using and the piece you’re finishing. You can read the whole article if you want more details, but I’ll summarize all the basic principles here.

If you’re painting with a latex paint OR using a stain-blocking primer, even an unfinished piece (stain only, no varnish or top coat) will need a light sanding. If the piece has a finish, you need to sand until the finish is completely removed AND wipe everything down with a deglosser.

If you’re painting with a chalk or mineral paint, lightly sand high-gloss pieces. Low-gloss or matte pieces do not need to be sanded. However, if you’re going to use a stain-blocking primer underneath your mineral/chalk paint, you need to complete the more extensive prep needed for that primer (see above).

No matter what piece you have or paint you’re using, thoroughly clean your piece with AT LEAST soapy water, being sure to rinse off the residue from the cleaner.

Once your piece is clean, consider using a stain-blocking primer. Certain wood stains can bleed into your paint and ruin your work. To test for bleeding, I recommend painting a small portion of your piece with a couple coats of paint and letting it sit for two or three days. This isn’t a foolproof method, but it’s easier than using a stain blocking primer even when you don’t need it and better than realizing the stain bleeds after painting your entire piece.

Those four points are the crux of what I’ll be getting at below. However, there is more to learn and some tips to follow.

While we often adjust our projects for the materials we have on hand, you can save yourself a lot of time and effort by purchasing specific materials, especially if your project involves painting over stained wood. If you don’t want to spend a long time sanding down a finish or priming with an oil-based paint, I recommend Fusion Mineral Paint.

Fusion is perfect for stained wood projects. If the piece is high-gloss, all you need is a light sanding with a medium-grit sandpaper. If the piece is low-gloss or no-gloss, no sanding is necessary.

After sanding, clean your piece thoroughly and wait until it dries completely. From there, the surface of the wood is ready to paint. Fusion has amazing coverage and durability meaning minimal prep and low risk of bleed-through.

It’s nice to have the option of a high-quality product with minimal prep work, but buying the perfect product for every project is a luxury even if it does save time. Whether the stain in the wood is oil-based or water-based, you can paint over it using what you already have in your DIY tool kit.

Start by sanding your piece thoroughly, being sure to remove any old finish. Then clean the piece and let it dry.

If you don’t have a stain-blocking primer on hand, you can use shellac or another top coat in your arsenal in its place. This works especially well if you just have a few knots you know you want to cover. Cover the knots with at least two thin coats, letting each coat dry before applying the next.

Sand those spots lightly to rough the surface and allow the paint to adhere. Then your piece is ready to paint with whatever paint you have on hand!

It’s important to remember that this is a DIY method that is good for those last-minute situations where you want a little extra security from bleed-through. It is probably not going to be good enough if you’re painting a mahogany piece pure white. If you need to cover your whole piece (not just the knots), I’d recommend getting a stain-blocking primer.

As a general rule, chalk paint will take about an hour to dry. However, this depends on the brand of chalk paint and the material you’re applying it to.

If you’re applying to a previously painted surface, give your first coat an hour to dry before going in with the second coat.

If you’re applying to raw wood, give your first coat at least an hour and a half to dry. The porous nature of raw wood will suck up some of the paint and extend the dry time.

If you’re applying to a non-porous surface like metal, the first coat just needs an hour.

These and the drying guidelines given by your chalk paint manufacturer are just general timeframes. There are better visual and tactile indications that you can use to determine when it’s time for a second coat or wax.

Drying time for chalk paint will vary based on humidity, application method, the material you’re applying it to, and more. Look for these visual and tactile clues to know when the paint is dry:

• fully matte, no sheen
• chalky, dry texture

There is a big difference between dry chalk paint and cured chalk paint. While the visual appearance will not change between the dry pain and cured paint, the tactile feeling will change.

Dry paint will still chip and scratch even with just light pressure with a fingernail. Cured chalk paint will not scratch with light pressure.

To allow the paint to fully cure, you’ll usually need to wait about 24 hours.

Anyone who has worked with true milk paint knows it’s not as simple as opening up a can of paint. True milk paint comes in powdered form that needs to be emulsified into water, and this hand-mixed paint spoils quickly so it has to be used almost immediately.

However, true milk paint enthusiasts think the unique finish milk paints give are worth the hassle. Milk paint is uniquely chippy unlike the distressed finish chalk paint gives.

I recently came across the General Finishes milk paint product. It claims to be a milk paint that comes ready to use and is shelf stable. This would certainly make using milk paint a lot easier. However, does using this product sacrifice the beautiful finish a true milk paint gives?

I tested the product to get a sense of the finish it provides and its similarity to milk paint. Honestly, I was pretty disappointed. If you’re looking for a true milk paint finish, I recommend a true milk paint sold in a powdered form.

However, the General Finishes milk paint isn’t a bad paint product; it just isn’t milk paint. If you’re interested in the type of finish you can get with this product or in how different it is from a milk paint, the research below will be helpful to you.

Immediately upon opening the can, I realized that the paint was much thicker than milk paint. The thickness of the paint plays a major roll in the finish, strength of the paint, and coverage.

While chalk paint is self-leveling, milk paint will usually show some of your brush strokes. That is part of the traditional milk paint look. However, there is a big difference between seeing brush strokes in a thin paint and brush strokes in a thick paint.

As you can see in the closeup to the right, the paint is INCREDIBLY streaky. It rapidly dries to a smudg-y state, which means you have to be careful not to go back over previous brushstrokes.

This is very different from the brushstrokes you can see in a milk paint, which are far more subtle and have an old-world look not a badly-painted look. The paint does have good adhesion to the board I was using, but the thickness of the paint made it unpleasant to work with.

I’ve heard that this paint applies like butter, and I could see that being the case on a super smooth surface. However, on the rougher surface of the board I used, it was very unpleasant to work with.

That being said, the brush you choose to use can have a big impact on the paint. If you have a brush you know works really well with thicker paints, you might enjoy working with this more than I did.

Another side effect to thicker paint is a longer dry time. I had to wait a full two hours between coats of paint. This made the whole painting process pretty cumbersome–I had to clean up all my tools in between coats while I waited for the finish to dry.

I had some hopes going into the second coat that it would smooth out some of the original brushstrokes, but this was not the case. The second coat was just as bad.

Compare the beautiful and old-world look of the dresser on the left (taken from The Real Milk Paint Co.’s gallery) to the glob-y streaks in the General Finishes milk paint on the right.

I highly recommend checking out more of the gallery on The Real Milk Paint Co.’s website to see more beautiful examples of true milk paint.

Overall, I think most white paints applied to a dark board are going to have trouble getting really good coverage. That being said, I was surprised that not even three coats of this paint gave me good coverage. This isn’t necessarily a huge negative; it was just surprising.

Take a look at this closeup of the fully dry three coats of paint and the broader shot to its right. I do like buildable coverage in milk paints, but I personally would have preferred to see full coverage after three coats of this thick paint.

As for the finish itself, it is exceptionally glossy. Milk paint isn’t always as matte as chalk paint, but I haven’t seen a milk paint with this glossy a finish before.

Just examining this paint as it stands on its own, it is thick with buildable coverage, has strong adhesion, has a glossy finish, and is not self-leveling. It is pretty strong and not easy to distress.

Comparing it to milk paint, however, it really doesn’t hold up. Milk paints are thin with an elegant satin or matte finish. They chip naturally to give a distressed look to a piece. The General Finishes milk paint is none of these things.

The small convenience of having a premixed paint is not worth all the differences between this paint and a true milk paint. If you’ve worked with this paint or other milk paint brands, leave a comment with your experiences below!